How to Add Finger Grips to a Cutting Board

What are finger grips on a cutting board?

Finger grips are shallow recesses routed into the side or underside edge of a cutting board. They make it easier to lift the board from a worktop without adding separate handles or hardware.

A well-designed finger grip should feel comfortable, remain visually subtle and leave enough material around the recess to keep the board strong.

They are especially useful on heavier solid wood cutting boards that sit flat on the work surface and can otherwise be difficult to pick up.

When should you add the finger grips?

Finger grips are usually added after the cutting board has been glued, flattened and trimmed to its final dimensions.

The board should already be close to its final surface condition so the location of the recess does not change significantly during later machining.

A practical sequence is:

1. Build and flatten the cutting board.
2. Trim it to the final length and width.
3. Prepare the edges and sand the board close to its final condition.
4. Mark and route the finger grips.
5. Refine the recesses and complete the final sanding.
6. Apply the chosen food-safe finish according to the manufacturer's instructions.

What do you need?

Step 1 — Decide where the grips should sit

Start by placing the cutting board on a flat work surface and considering how you naturally pick it up.

Finger grips are commonly positioned along the longer side edges because this allows the board to be lifted comfortably with both hands.

The exact location depends on the board dimensions, thickness and design. The grips should feel balanced rather than being pushed too close to one end.

If the board has feet, a juice groove or another feature, take those details into account before marking the recesses.

Step 2 — Mark both sides symmetrically

Measure the position of the first grip and transfer the same dimensions to the opposite side.

Mark the start and end points clearly and check that both recesses will sit at the same height relative to the top and bottom faces.

Small differences are surprisingly noticeable on a finished cutting board, especially when both sides are visible.

Step 3 — Check the remaining wood thickness

Before routing, look at how much material will remain above, below and behind the recess.

The grip should not cut so deeply into the board that the side becomes structurally weak. This is especially important on thinner cutting boards.

A thicker board generally provides more freedom when shaping a grip, but the recess should still remain proportionate to the overall design.

Step 4 — Set up the guide or template

A finger grip is much easier to route consistently when the router follows a controlled path.

Depending on the router and bit, this can be achieved with a suitable fence, guide, bearing system or dedicated template.

The important point is that the setup controls both the position and length of the recess.

Secure the guide carefully and make sure it cannot shift while the router is running.

Step 5 — Test the setup on scrap

Before routing the finished cutting board, make a test cut on a suitable offcut whenever possible.

This allows you to check:

• the shape of the recess,
• the routing depth,
• the length of the grip,
• the position of the router relative to the guide,
• and how the selected hardwood responds to the bit.

If the recess feels uncomfortable or looks too aggressive, it is much easier to adjust the setup before working on the actual board.

Step 6 — Choose a controlled cutting depth

Finger grips are intended to make the board easier to lift. They do not need to become deep cavities.

Set the router so the recess removes only enough material to create a comfortable grip while leaving sufficient wood around the surrounding edge.

If the required recess is relatively deep, several controlled passes can often produce a cleaner result than removing all of the material aggressively at once.

Step 7 — Secure the cutting board

The board needs to remain stable while the router moves along the side or underside edge.

Support it so the area being routed remains accessible without allowing the board to rock, slide or flex.

Any clamps or fixtures should remain clear of the router path and should not interfere with the guide system.

Always follow the operating instructions for the router, bit and workholding system you are using.

Step 8 — Route the first finger grip

Position the router at the beginning of the guide and make sure the base is properly supported before starting the cut.

Move through the recess with a smooth, controlled motion. Avoid pushing the router aggressively or changing the angle of the tool while the bit is engaged.

Keep consistent contact with the guide throughout the entire pass.

The finished recess should transition smoothly into the surrounding edge rather than ending with abrupt irregular marks.

What should the grip shape look like?

A practical finger grip is usually elongated rather than circular.

Step 9 — Route the matching grip

Once the first side is complete, transfer the same setup to the opposite edge.

Do not rely only on visual judgement. Measure the reference points again so the second recess matches the first one accurately.

Use the same router depth, guide position and cutting method.

After routing, place the board flat on the bench and check both sides from normal viewing distance.

Step 10 — Inspect the routed surfaces

Look closely at the recesses for small machining marks, torn fibres or burn marks.

Pay particular attention to the start and end of each grip, where changes in feed speed or router position can leave visible marks.

Run your fingertips gently along the finished profile. The grip should feel continuous and comfortable without sharp transitions.

Step 11 — Sand the finger grips

Routed recesses often need a small amount of final surface preparation.

Sand carefully enough to remove raised fibres and machining marks without changing the shape or making one side noticeably larger than the other.

Keep the edges of the recess smooth but controlled. Excessive rounding can make the detail look less precise.

Step 12 — Apply the final finish

Once the grips and the rest of the cutting board have been fully prepared, complete the selected finishing process.

Use a finish that is explicitly suitable for the intended food-contact application and follow the manufacturer's instructions for application, drying and maintenance.

Make sure the routed recesses receive the same careful treatment as the flat surfaces. Freshly machined areas should not remain unfinished simply because they are less visible.

Finger grips or separate handles?

Both solutions can make a cutting board easier to lift, but they create very different designs.

Can you combine finger grips with a juice groove?

Yes.

The two features perform different functions and can be used together on the same cutting board.

The juice groove sits on the working surface to collect liquid, while the finger grips are positioned on the side or underside edge to make the board easier to lift.

Plan both features before routing so there is enough material between them and the overall design remains balanced.

Common finger-grip mistakes

Can you add finger grips to an existing cutting board?

In many cases, yes.

The board needs to be thick and structurally sound enough to accommodate the recess without weakening the edge.

Inspect existing features such as feet, handles, cracks, glue joints and juice grooves before deciding where to route.

If the board has already been finished, the newly machined grip will expose fresh wood and will need to be sanded and refinished appropriately.

Does every cutting board need finger grips?

No.

They are most useful on heavier boards that sit close to the work surface and are otherwise difficult to lift.

Smaller or lighter cutting boards may already be easy to pick up without any additional detail.

As with a juice groove, the feature should solve a practical problem rather than being added simply because it can be routed.

Ready to add your finger grips?

Clean finger grips depend on careful layout and a controlled routing setup.

Start with a finished-size cutting board, mark both sides symmetrically and check that enough material will remain around the recess. Test the router setup when possible, make controlled passes and refine the routed surfaces before applying the final finish.

The result should feel comfortable and useful while remaining a subtle part of the overall cutting-board design.

You can explore the available dimensions and wood species in our solid wood board collection.

For more on controlled routing and clean edges, see our solid wood edge-routing guide.